Tuesday, May 31, 2016

These Are A Few Of My Favorite Things

Tuesday, May 31, 2016
Let's start at the very beginning.  It's a very good place to start.  

I was 8 years old when The Sound of Music came out.  I remember my mother taking me and my sister, Lisa (18 months younger), to see the movie.  We loved it!  Who wouldn't?  There was singing and kids.  As we got older and watched the movie again and again we began to see the larger story that involved Nazi's and war.  I can't begin to tell you how many times I've seen the movie.  My sister felt the same way.

In 2006 we were able to spend a day in Salzburg, where much of the movie was filmed.  We walked on the stairs where they sang Do-Re-Mi and through Mirabell Gardens.  We saw the cemetery where they hid from the Nazi's.  We thought we saw the Cathedral where Maria married the Captain.  More on that later.  It was very exciting for both of us and after returning home we watched the movie again.

In 2010 Jim and I, along with Barbara and Sascha, made another day trip to Salzburg.  This time we went up to the Hohensalzburg Fortress.  From the rooftop we could see for many miles in every direction.  It was so beautiful that we decided that if we had the opportunity to return and spend time in the countryside we would.  And I decided that if we ever did, I wanted to take a Sound of Music tour.  Maybe it's corny, but so what!

Now we are here.  I did a lot of research about different tour companies.  I didn't want to do a big bus tour.  Bob"s Special Tours seemed to be what I was looking for.  Then I found out the price.   Hmmm...I decided I didn't want to do it that much!  But after considering it further I decided that we may never be here again and I didn't want to have any regrets about not going.  I've made decisions before based on how much something cost, and at times I later regretted not doing something or buying something because of the price.  We went into the tour office yesterday and made a reservation for today at 2:00 p.m.  We got a discount by showing our Rick Steves guidebook and paying cash.



Today we took the train to Salzburg.  On the way we passed a pillar for a bridge that had some graffiti.  Not unusual.  But this was the only graffiti on the pillar.  It spelled out in capital letters - ANGE.  That's the name my sister always called me.  Strange.  After we arrived we walked through Mirabell Gardens on the way to the old town.  We collect watercolor paintings from places we have traveled to, and yesterday we bought one in Salzburg.  Today I took a photo of the same scene.



We got to the office for the tour, paid and then waited for the 2:00 departure.  Apparently they had a lot of people, so we would be split between two vans.  We were with a woman that lives in London, her 5 year old daughter, and the woman's parents.  The parents live in Australia.  So 6 of us.  Perfect!  We left early because we were all ready to go.  The guide told us some history about Salzburg.  He also told us some things about the making of the movie and the real Von Trapp family.  

SPOILER ALERT -  Don't read the next paragraph if you don't want to know the difference between fact and fiction.

In no particular order -
The oldest child was actually a boy.  As an adult he used to introduce himself as Liesl.
There was no Ralph and no Baroness.  The characters were only there for drama.
Maria was hired as a teacher, not a governess.
Edelweiss is not an Austrian folk tune.  It was written for the Broadway play that preceded the movie.
Maria was 26 years younger than the Captain.
They were married for 11 years before they left Austria. 
They didn't make a daring escape to Switzerland, they traveled to Italy to perform and didn't return.
When Christopher Plummer was singing, the voice was dubbed.
The person singing is the man who was the voice of Yogi Bear.
Christopher Plummer's actual singing voice is used at the festival towards the end of the movie.

There's more, but I think enough bubbles have been burst.

IF YOU AVOIDED THE SPOILERS IT IS NOW SAFE TO READ! 😀

We drove past some movie sites in Salzburg.  We stopped at the Palace of Leopoldskron, where they used the exterior to show them out on the patio, and where the children fell into the lake.  We went to Hellbrunn Palace to see the gazebo.  It had been moved there and is now sealed off because people were hurting themselves trying to recreate the scene of Liesl jumping from bench to bench.  We drove through the Salzkammergut Lake District.  The countryside is gorgeous!  Everything is so green.  Probably due to the average of 180 days a year of rain they receive.


Palace of Leopoldskron 

Gazebo

The trees the kids climbed

Now for the wedding cathedral.  The exterior shots are of the cathedral in Salzburg that we toured yesterday.  Apparently they couldn't get permission to film inside, so they had to find a substitute.  They used a church in Mondsee.  It's not quite as grand as the cathedral in Salzburg, but it's pretty darn nice!

Cathedral in Mondsee
Note from Julie Andrews when she visited two years ago

St. Gilgen on Wolfgangsee

Red Bull's Headquarters 


During the 4 hour tour the soundtrack from the movie was played between the guide's commentary.  I had read about how people on the tour sing along.  On one hand I thought that would be just too cheesy.  On the other hand I was secretly hoping it would happen.  Cheesy can be good, right?  Sweet Jim was such a good sport about going on the tour (I told him it was okay with me if he opted out), because I knew he was only doing it for me.  So who do you think started singing?  That's right.  Jim!
Ha!!  No one came right out belting the lyrics, but I know I heard soft singing coming from the back of the van.

The guide dropped us off at the train station after the tour ended and we took the next train back to St. Johann im Pongau.  It was a great day!  One more thing checked off of my bucket list.  

I saw the ANGE graffiti again on the return trip and I had my mother's passport with me, as I have had every other day.  I really felt like they were both with me today.



Monday, May 30, 2016

Salzburg

Monday, May 30, 2016
We love Salzburg.  We have gone twice before.  On our first trip to Europe in 2006 we took a train from Munich and went for the day.  In 2010 we spent a week in Schliersee (Bavaria) and drove to Salzburg for a day with Barbara and Sascha.  Believe it or not, they are not familiar with the Sound of Music movie.  Apparently people outside of North America haven't seen it.  Or maybe it's people outside of the engluspeaking world.  Either way, such a pity.

There are quite a few places I would like to see during our week here.  Unfortunately many of them are best enjoyed in good weather.  Rain is forecast for every day this week.  Just our luck.  Hoping the forecast changes in the coming days, we decided that we would go to Salzburg today.  After we arrived and parked the car we went to the tourist information office in Mozartplatz.  They have a walking tour that departs at 12:15.  Jim had only had one small (and in Europe that is tiny) cup of coffee this morning and I hadn't had any tea.  There was a place on the Mozartplatz where we could have a drink and wait for the tour.  I realized that it was the very same place we had gone to with Barbara and Sascha when we were here 6 years ago.  Jim had a couple of little cups of coffee and I had some tea.  We still had some time to kill before the tour, so we went in search of Starbucks.  Yeah, we should have done that to begin with.  It would have saved us some euros!  I wanted to see if they have a Salzburg mug, because I collect city mugs on our international travels.  I got a thermal cup in Prague and skipped getting one in Vienna.  We only have just so much room in our luggage.  They have them but we didn't want to carry it around all day, so we will go back later.

The walking tour was conducted in German and English.  The guide took us around the city center and was generally very informative.  I think the German speakers had the advantage.  About midway through the tour the rain began. 


When we walked into the cathedral we heard children singing.  I later learned they were from Glasgow, Scotland.  They sounded so angelic.  They were just finishing up a song.  Then they started singing Edelweiss, a song from the Sound of Music.  Have I mentioned I love the Sound of Music?  I couldn't believe I was in Salzburg hearing this song.



Some of the singers after they had finished.

After the tour we went in search for some lunch.  By the time we were finished it was after 3:00, it was wet out, and we were ready to call it a day.  We stopped at Starbucks for my mug and returned to St. Johann im Pongau. 

Why didn't we spend more time in Salzburg?  We will be going back tomorrow for something really special.  I can't wait!!!!

After all the rain today, this was our reward looking out our window this evening -




Sunday, May 29, 2016

Berchtesgaden And The Eagle's Nest

Sunday, May 29, 2016
The weather forecast for this week doesn't look good.  They are predicting rain and/or thunderstorms every day we are here.  Of course the predictions have been wrong more then they've been right, so there is hope.

Sunday's in this area usually mean that almost everything is closed.  We experienced it before when we spent a week in Bavaria, just a little north of here.  What to do?  We figured that the only place we could dependably find things open would be in Salzburg.  When I checked the weather this morning it was showing that for the majority of the day it would be partly sunny.  Great!  I wore my sandals (for only about the 4th time on the trip so far!) and finally my skirt.  I have now worn every article of clothes I brought with me.  

We were almost to Salzburg when I saw a sign for Berchtesgaden.  Of course!  The sun is out and we should be taking advantage of that fact.  We went there instead, and then up to where we can take the bus to the Eagles Nest.  This is where Hitler did much of his planning for WWII.  No cars are allowed.  The road is only wide enough for the bus, and I times I wasn't sure it was wide enough for that!  The views are breathtaking and it does feel like you are on top of the world!



We then went to the Obersalzberg Documentation Center and Bunker.  When we paid to go in I asked about the audio guides.  I think she was trying to tell me they were out of them.  No problem, about every other place I've gone on this trip have information in the native language and in English, at the minimum.  Every other place that is.  No English here.  It was hard to get much out of it when I couldn't read the information on the displays.  We also went into Hitler's bunker.  I'm glad we went because its historical, but the best thing about it was the views in my opinion.  

On our way to Sankt Johann im Pongau yesterday we drove by a castle on the edge of a hill very close to here.   We learned that it is called Burg Hohenwerfen and it's over 900 years old.  We considered stopping there on the way back today, but it was getting late and I was tired.  Another day.  We avoided going back to our hotel for awhile because there was a 6:30 meeting for guests to attend and sign up for outings.  The man in charge approached us a half dozen times yesterday to remind us to attend.  It think it's great for those who don't have cars, but we do.  Our mission was to avoid him.  We walked around town a bit until we could go get dinner.  We were outside under an awning when the rain began.  The awning leaked near Jim so we moved.  The wind picked up and rain got harder.  The rain didn't end before we had to walk back to the hotel.  My feet were cold and wet by the time we got there.  So much for a skirt and sandals!

I sure hope we get good weather tomorrow.




Driving To The Alps

Saturday, May 28, 2016
Before leaving Vienna we picked up our rental car for the week, a VW Golf.  It's a diesel with a start/stop engine feature like the Audi A3 had in Italy.  At least it doesn't freak me out any more.  It's only about a 4 hour drive from Vienna to our next location, Sankt Johann im Pongau.  Sankt Johann is approximately 35 miles south of Salzburg.  

Having plenty of time for the drive, we made a very small diversion to Melk Benedictine Abbey.  The entire complex is enormous.  Photos were not allowed inside except in the cathedral.  It is located along the Danube River.



We made it to the Alpenland Sporthotel in one piece.  Driving in Austria is a dream compared to Italy!  We checked in and found our room.  It's big enough, and decorated in 1970's chalet decor.  This is a ski resort area, so that makes some sense.  Our room is on the back side with mountain views all around.  We have a balcony with a table and chairs.

These are our views from our balcony 

With a little refrigerator for our wine and beer, I think this place will be just fine for a week.

Friday, May 27, 2016

Vienna

Friday, May 27, 2016
We are staying at a boardinghouse, so no breakfast is included.  We went to Starbucks for coffee/tea and something to eat.  We then went to the TI to do a walking tour.  We were told the tour would last 2-2 1/2 hours.  It actually lasted over 3 hours.  We stopped at another Starbucks for coffee/iced tea and a snack and rested up while deciding what to do next.  

Schönbrunn Palace is the second biggest palace in Europe.  The only one larger is Versailles.  We decided to spend the rest of the day there.  By the time we got to the front of the line to buy our tickets, we couldn't get into the Palace before 5:09.  There were other areas to see before that, so it worked out fine.  We went to the Privy and Orangery Gardens, but skipped the maze.  The palace and grounds are quite large.  I think the gardens at Versailles are more impressive, but I liked that Schönbrunn was not nearly as over the top as Versailles.


We had a nice dinner to end our stay in Vienna.  Tomorrow we depart for the mountains.  I am so looking forward to spending the next week in the country.  Unfortunately the weather forecast calls for rain and/or thundershowers every day.  Fingers crossed the weather cooperates for us.

Thursday, May 26, 2016

On To Vienna

Thursday, May 26, 2016
After a meager breakfast at our Cesky Krumlov hotel we were picked up by CK Shuttle for our ride to Vienna.  This was a bigger vehicle and there were already 6 passengers in the van.  Jim and I sat in front.  We chatted with the driver the entire way to Vienna, about a 4 hour drive.  It made it go so much faster.  We were dropped off at the K&T Boardinghouse.  Our room is nice and clean, and the location is good. 

After we dropped off our bags we walked into the City Center.  It was mid-afternoon and we didn't want to eat too much and not be hungry for dinner.  So we did what anyone should do when arriving in Vienna.  We went to the Sacher Hotel and had original Sacher Torte.  I had Sacher tea and Jim had coffee.  It was a pricey snack, but when in Rome...or Vienna.  You know what I mean,  I compare it to going to Laduree in Paris.  A special experience and a local treat.  



After going to the tourist information office to get information about walking tours tomorrow we went to Naschmarkt.  It is a marketplace to buy produce and other items.  We walked all the way there, just to discover that everything was closed because today was some sort of holiday.  

The weather was beautiful today.  Tomorrow the weather forecast is for thunderstorms.  We decided we should take advantage of the sunshine and go into the countryside to see the Vienna Woods.  We took the U4 subway to the end of the line, then the bus to Kahlenberg.  The view was amazing!  





We returned to our neighborhood and finally tracked down some dinner.  Not much was open, and we stumbled across a French place near where we are staying.  What do you order at a French place in Austria?  A burger of course!  Jim proclaimed that his was the best he's ever eaten.

Wednesday, May 25, 2016

Cesky Krumlov

Wednesday, May 25, 2016
This morning we said goodbye to Prague.  A CK Shuttle van picked us up at the apartment and drove us to our hotel in Cesky Krumlov.  Well, almost to the hotel.  The street to the hotel is very steep and narrow. He wasn't about to drive on it.  The driver helped us down the road with our bags.  There were two women from Australia sharing the shuttle with us. The drive went by quickly.  The woman who runs Pension Nostagie let us in and showed us to our room.  It is quite large with a bed, sofa and two chairs.  We also have a view of the castle, if you walk to the window and look up and to the left.  She showed us our room. Then she had us go upstairs and showed us where we will have breakfast at 8:00 tomorrow.  She doesn't seem to speak too much English, but she makes her point.

The view from our window

We went to the tourist information office and learned that there will be a walking tour at 2:00.  We had a light lunch and walked around this very cute town until it was time for the tour.

The tour was interesting and informative.  This town is a UNESCO World Heritage sight.  The guide told us a lot of stories about the history of the town.  The tour lasted 2 hours and ended at the castle.  We continued to walk around the castle grounds and gardens following the tour.



The guide suggested that we go to Papa's for dinner.  We sat outdoors looking over the river.  Our food was very good.  

Before

After

After that we made our way slowly back to the town square, where we found a bench and soaked up the ambiance of this fairytale town.

Tuesday, May 24, 2016

Prague- Day 2

Tuesday, May 24, 2016

Today would have been my sister's 58 birthday.  She had wanted us to go to Prague on our first trip to Europe in 2006.  Logistically we couldn't make it work out.  She would have liked it here.

We devoted most of our time today to the Jewish area.  There is a very long history of Jews in Prague, both their segregation and persecution and when they were accepted and an intergral part of Czech society.  Sadly their integration was not very long lived.

We started at the Pinkasova synagoga, or Pinkas Synagogue.  There they have a Memorial to the Victims of the Shoah from Bohemia and Moravia.  It included drawings made by children in Terezin.  From there it led us to the Old Jewish Cemetery.  There are graves there many hundreds of years old.  They are on top of older graves, and those are on top of even older graves.  There are tens of thousands of people buried there.


We also saw both the Klausen Synagogue and the Ceremonial Hall, where there were exhibits on Jewish customs and traditions.  The Spanish Synagogue explained the history of the Jews in Bohemia and Moravia, and included silver items recovered from those areas.


This is Oskar Wiener.  I'm pretty sure his middle name is Meyer.

We spent hours going through all the buildings and exhibits.  We walked back to the Old Town area.  Jim is still dragging a bit a wanted some coffee.  Hello Starbucks.  One thing I always miss when in Europe is iced tea.  Yeah, you can get Nescafé peach or lemon in a bottle.  No thanks.  We got to Starbucks and I had a genius idea, if I do say so myself.  You can get hot tea at Starbucks.  They have ice.  I asked for a vente cup full of ice and a hot tea, and made my own iced tea.  I was so happy!!!



We went back to the apartment for a while because a thunderstorm was coming in.  We almost made it back in time.  We ventured out to look for dinner. We passed these two guys getting their feet nibbled on by fish.


We finally found a place for dinner.  It was excellent and a good way to bring our stay in Prague to an end.


 Tomorrow we leave for Cesky Krumlov.